In this episode of Oh Shoot, Cassidy Lynne answers common questions about how to use a flash, including topics like manual flash settings, bouncing a flash, & more. Come read more about Flash Photography 101.
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Hey guys! Welcome back to another episode of Oh Shoot. I’m your host Cassidy Lynne, and today we’re diving into something I get asked about all the time, flash photography. Whether it’s DMs, Instagram story replies, or comments on my posts, you all have a ton of questions about flash, so today’s episode is just me, answering your Flash Qs. We’re covering manual vs. TTL, how to set up your flash properly, settings that speed up your recycle time, how to shoot in dark churches, what I recommend for entry-level Canon flashes and way more. So, if you’re new to Flash or just trying to make it suck less, this one’s for you. Let’s get into it! Flash photography 101
Flash Photography 101
What Are Flash Settings To Help Your Flash Recycle Faster?
First up, the question everyone asks: How do I make my flash recycle faster?
If your flash power is too high, the recycle speed slows down. It might not keep up with your camera’s continuous shooting speed. Also: avoid TTL mode if recycle time is a concern. TTL uses a pre-flash for metering before every actual flash, which slows things down. I used to swear by TTL mode, but honestly, manual mode is where it’s at for speed! One other huge tip: battery type. My old flash used AA batteries and I’d have to change them mid-wedding. But now with a flash that uses rechargeable lithium batteries? I can go 3–5 weddings without charging. Game changer!!
I Have A Zoom Lens But In TTL Mode The Focal Length Doesn’t Change – Is That Ok? YES! 🙂
If you’re using TTL and notice your flash focal length doesn’t change when you zoom, don’t stress. That’s normal. Your flash focal length controls how wide the light spreads. Wide lenses (like 24mm) need a wide light spread, while telephoto lenses (like 70mm or 85mm) need something more direct. If you’re using a 24–70mm, setting your flash around 50mm is a nice middle ground. Or match it to how you’re shooting, if you’re zooming in a lot, go higher. If you’re staying wide, go lower!
How Do You Expose Your Camera Settings Properly For Flash?
Here’s how I build out my camera settings for flash:
- Shutter speed: Super important. This has to sync with your flash. Usually, that means staying at or below 1/200 or 1/250.
- Aperture: Totally stylistic. I usually shoot around f/3.5 for flash photos, especially at receptions. I like a little more in focus.
- ISO: Generally low. Direct flash? ISO 100. If I’m bouncing flash, I might bump to 250–300 depending on the space.
Once those are set, then I adjust the flash power to fine-tune my exposure. If you’re using TTL, you can also dial it down manually, I often set it to -1 when things feel too bright!
Would I Recommend A Magsphere Diffuser For The Godox V1?
Yes, I do! It softens your light in a really clean, subtle way. If you’re shooting in a space with no bounce surfaces or just want to tone down the harshness of direct flash, the MagSphere is a solid tool to have on hand. Just test it out, sometimes it’s a yes, sometimes it’s a “meh,” but it’s a great option for around $50.
What Do I Need To Know About Manual Flash Settings?
Okay, let’s talk manual mode. I’m still working on using it more, but here’s what I’ve learned:
- TTL = auto. Best for moving subjects.
- Manual = full control. Recycles faster. Use this if your subject isn’t moving around too much.
There are two main settings:
- Power (the fraction): 1/1 = full power = brightest. Drop it to ½, ¼, 1/8, etc., to reduce intensity.
- Focal length: Lower = wider light spread. Higher = focused beam. Match this to your lens focal length when possible.
Once you’ve dialed in your camera settings, the flash power is the final piece that determines your exposure.
What’s An Entry Level Flash For A Canon? Reasonably Priced
If you’re shooting Canon and want a flash that won’t break the bank:
- Godox V1C: Around $190 used on eBay. It’s not entry-entry level, but it’s so good.
- Godox TT685C II: Around $130 and still great.
I love Godox, solid performance, fast recycle time, and the rechargeable batteries are a win.
How To Get Long Exposure With Flash?
Want that cool shutter drag effect? Here’s how I do it:
- ISO: 100
- Aperture: Start at f/8
- Shutter speed: Drag it down to around 1/2 second (or play with it)
Use TTL to keep the flash consistent and freeze your subject when it fires. Then drag your camera during the open shutter to capture ambient lights like string lights. It takes practice, and where you stand matters! Some spots get better light streaks than others.
Do You Point The Flash At The People Or At The Wall? And Why?
Both are options! I love direct flash because I can shoot any orientation and not have to reposition anything. But sometimes, bouncing off a white wall or ceiling is the move, especially if you want soft, even light. Keep in mind: only bounce off white surfaces. If you bounce off a red wall, you’ll get red light. And remember to avoid harsh shadows and weird directions, test shots are your best friend here.
Apart From Learning Your Style, Do You Think It’s Necessary To Use A Flash When It’s Sunny?
Not unless it fits your style. I usually don’t use flash in sun unless I want that fun G7X editorial vibe or I’m just experimenting. But day-to-day? Not needed unless it adds something to your look.
Can You Switch From Vertical To Horizontal Shooting Without Changing The Alignment Of The Flash?
Only if you’re using direct flash. If you’re bouncing, you’ll need to reposition the flash head when you switch orientation. That’s why I love direct flash for flexibility, I can move around quickly without messing with the setup.
Sometimes My Flash Doesn’t Fire…Does This Happen To Everyone?
Totally normal. Some reasons:
- Batteries aren’t charged
- Flash hasn’t recycled yet
- Not mounted properly
- Shutter speed is too fast (you’ll get those black bars)
If it happens a lot, check your batteries first. I always keep a fully charged spare in my bag.
How Do You Take A Big Group Photo With A Flash?
Crank your aperture up. That’s the key. I actually think flash makes big groups easier, you’re not relying on ambient light, so you can control your exposure better. Just set a high aperture (like f/5.6 or higher) and test until it looks good!
For Super Dark Places With No Lighting, What Do You Recommend?
Sometimes I’ll use just ambient light if there are candles or string lights, I’ve been loving that lately. But if it’s truly dark, flash is your best friend. Just know it’s not as fast as natural light. That’s the trade-off.
In A Large Church With Tall Ceilings, How Would You Shoot Flash When A Bride Enters?
Okay, if I have to use flash in this kind of situation, I’ll aim it somewhere between the subject and the ceiling, use a diffuser, and keep it subtle. Manual or TTL both work, just don’t overdo the brightness. Keep it timeless and soft.
How to Avoid Overexposing With Flash
TTL helps a lot here because it adapts to your subject’s distance. Otherwise:
- Drop your ISO
- Bump your aperture
- Lower your flash power
Always do a test shot and remember, better to underexpose than blow out the highlights. You can bring up shadows, but you can’t fix lost detail.
Show Notes:
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